Restomod Sub Frame

After doing the late model seat mod, I decided I would need a way to put some stiffness back into the chassis. I was going to get the reinforcements used on the convertible but then decided that subframe connectors would be the better way to go. I looked at bolt in and weld in and quickly decided that no matter what, they would be welded in. I had ordered a set the were the typical strait square tube bolt ins that could be welded. after going on a second week of being on backorder, I cancelled and came across the set I bought from TinMan Fabrication. I'm glad I got these. They follow the contours of the floor well and will do exactly what I wanted, more support for the seats.

Here's the same view with one on its side. The plate that comes up gets weled to the side of the rear frame member.

Here's a shot of the other side of the rear. I will run a bead all around where I can join the subframe the the rear frame member.

These pictures show how the floor sits right on the subframe connector. Just what I needed to help with the late model seat mod. The subframe connector hangs no lower than the exhaust.

The rear end of the subframe connector will get welded to the side of the rear frame member and along all the seams I can close up. Here I haven't prepped the metal for welding yet.

After cutting the rear of the front frame member off, the front of the connector slides in. Fuel line is pulled away and attached to the exhaust to give me working clearance.

Subframe connectors all welded in and painted/undercoated.
I ended up moving the fuel line clamp from the side of the frame rail to the bottom of the tunnel cross member/stiffner. The sub frame connector on the side blocks the hole. It's also the side of the sub frame connector that has the spacer plate welded to it, so I opted not to redrill there.
I know these made the car stiffer, I was working inside on the drivers side when the left rear stand fell. Car didn't even budge. Doesn't creak or moan when lifting or lowering it any more either.